This morning I hopped on the tram (an efficient and inexpensive means of transport), and headed to meet our Culinary Tour specialist for a day of tasting and learning about Rome and its’ food history. Our first interesting nugget was learning that the Roman cuisine is known as “Quinto Quarto

,” (fifth quarter) which refers to the offal that was leftover and distributed throughout Rome after a cow was slaughtered. We started as you might expect…with a morning cappuccino at Caffe Peru. Yes, it’s true, a cappuccino is only acceptable as your first coffee drink of the day. Caffe Peru is a lovely bar with a great staff, and on my favorite street in Rome: Via Guilia. Next, we wandered through Trastevere where we had a wonderful potato pizza at Boccaccia. You cannot experience a Roman Culinary Tour without a visit to the Market at Campo dei Fiori, one of the most famous markets in the world. Bring your camera, as all foods are colorful, ripe, and swelling with juices. Just as obvious as our tour starting with a cappuccino was the finale of a gelato. Cremeria Monteforte gave me yet another gelato option to recommend for those with a sweet tooth.

Arriving late in the afternoon, I quickly head to the main square: Piazza San Benedetto. I had forgotten that piazzas such as this still exist, where only Italian is spoken, pedestrians sparse, and a few local children kicking around the ball. I am comforted by the realization this scene lives on.

I continue down Via del Corso, where small shops known as Norcineria, sell the area’s local delicasies: black truffles, salami, and cheese. The shops proudly boast your typical “kitsch,” mostly menacing boar heads. I was literally dragged into one such shop as an old, friendly, Italian man was eager to share his NYC history with a New Yorker. This wasn’t the only such experience. The warmth and desire to engage foreigners was a continuous treat during my stay. These visits were always pepppered with “assagia, assagia, mangia, mangia,” pleads for me to sample the local fare.

The Palazzo Seneca is first class in every respect, from the welcoming staff who cannot do enough, the family whose presence is always available to ensure your satisfaction, and the careful design in the rooms and throughout the Property.

One of the attractions of Norcia is the town of Castelluccio, easily accessed by car. Climb up and over the mountain to discover the imposing and boundless “Great Plain.” The fields are at their most impressive in the Spring, as the flowers blossom into an explosion of colors. I was told that the town had become a haven for those looking to escape from their life, or drop off the proverbial radar. A quirky local tradition is the graffiti that boldly decorates the walls of the homes and buildings, commenting on everything from town gossip to politics.

Don’t forget to include Norcia in your Umbrian vacation.

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My first stop was Montalcino, where it is all about the wine. That is not to say the town is not beautiful….it is, but normally one visits Montalcino for the Brunello. The town has some delightful wine bars, “Osticcio” and “Alle Logge” are two of my preferred, offering both lovely wines, and stunning views.

Do not leave Montalcino without a visit to the nearby Abbey of Sant Antimo. Time your visit to coincide with the Monks Gregorian Chants.

Next up on my agenda was Pienza, famous for the pecorino cheese, found on most panini in Tuscany and beyond. Pienza is quaint, and even more so in the mornings and evenings when the day’s tourists return to their home base. You will not find a better place to sit and relax than the short Via dell’ Amore, tucked behind the Duomo and running along the Valley.

Plan ahead and make dinner reservations at the family run Latte di Luna, you will need them. Try the pici and the pork. Buon Appetito!

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Pietrasanta is an artisan community, reflected by the many art galleries that dot the streets. The town evolved into a haven for artisans and sculptors due to its’ proximity to the nearby marble quarry. An overlooked aspect of the town is the wonderful restaurants serving Tuscan fare. My favorites were Cerbero and Pinochhio, both trendy, yet warm, fun, and delicious!

I recommend hiring one of our private drivers to explore the Cinque Terre, so as not to miss the wonderful vistas afforded driving along the highway. Traveling by train is a more affordable option, but deprives one of some of the best views while in tunnels on the train.

Explore the area by foot and ferry. You will obviously want to walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola, known as “Via dell’Amore.” Enjoy a seafood lunch, washed down with Vermentino wine.

Other wonderful options for your time in Pietrasanta include excursions to nearby Lucca, Pisa, shopping in the lovely Forte dei Marmi, or perhaps a spa treatment at Grotta Giusti.

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Finally it was time to climb the mountain of marble. We zigzagged our way up the mountain of white marble, as workers carried on with their business of pulling the marble out of the interior of the mountain. I was surprised at our access, as the trucks and machinery had to maneuver around us. Thankfully my Guide Gabriele understands the way to gain this special access….grease the operators with beer and wine of course. During our tour. I learned much more than I anticipated about marble, how it is the best stone for cutting with precision.

It was also interesting to learn how the town of Colonna became famous for its’ still reknown lard sandwiches. It was discovered that the best source of energy for the workers (slaves) was animal fat. This lard also generated a nice layer of extra fat on the slaves to help fight against the cold temperatures on the mountain in the Winter. The recipe for the lard is quite scientific, and involves layering pig shoulder, spices, and other ingredients in a huge tub of marble for no less than 6 months….aren’t you getting hungry just thinking about it? Somewhere Homer is murmuring, “mmmmmmm pig shoulder.”

I don’t mean to suggest I did not have my favorites. Villa Balbianello, seen in a Bond and Star Wars film, was more impressive than one can imagine. A visit to Bellagio should include a stroll through the Botanical Gardens of Villa Melzi. Lastly, take the gondola from Como to Brunate for a spectacular view of the Lake.

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It’s hard not to love a city nicknamed “The Fat,” derived from its culinary treasures (most famously the tortellini in brodo, as well as the lasagna). There is much more to adore about Bologna than the food. For starters, it captures the Italian authenticity that escapes the larger, more visited cities. There is also a vitality to Bologna that is a by product of the largest Italian University. Youth is served in Bologna. Spend time exploring Piazza Maggiore and my favorite: Piazza Santo Stefano. The Fountain of Neptune will surprise, and the story of the two towers should be heard.

When I’m in Bologna, I always grab some parmesan and mortadello from the famed grocery: Tamburini, and head to Osteria del Sole where you can have some wine to go with your goods. This place is from another dimension, just order your wine, and act like you’ve been coming here for years, which I have.

This year, Bravo Italian Tours has arranged for our clients to test drive their choice of Ferrari in nearby Maranello. Even if you don’t wish to drive one (who wouldn’t), spend time at the wonderful Ferrari Museum across the way.

The last new addition to our Emilia Romagnia activities is the opportunity to have dinner, and if interested, a cooking class in the home of an Italian family, who carry on the tradition of Italian cooking and eating.

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